Build Super-Simple Drawers | WOOD Magazine

A whole lot of making, installing and building drawers is making sure things are lined up and square. I like to use plywood to build my drawers because then I don't have to worry about twisted or warped boards causing me issues with alignment.Drill the Drawer Face Holes Place the 1×6 drawer face on the work surface with the pocket holes facing down. Using a tape measure and a pencil, make two marks 4 inches from the ends of the board, and centered on its width. Using a Drill/Driver, create two pilot holes.You can also make the drawer height whatever you want. Give at least a 1/2″ of space between the top and bottom of your drawer frame opening. For my drawers on the sides, the opening height was 10 1/2″ but I only wanted my drawers to be 8 1/2″ high. The middle drawer opening was 5″ but I made my drawer 3 1/2″ to allow some good wiggleThis method of making drawers is commonly referred to as the Quarter, Quarter, Quarter (QQQ) method. It is credited to a woodworker named Steve Phipps, a woodworker that is way smarter than I am. The reason its called this is because the blade is 1/4" wide, a 1/4" high, and 1/4" from the fence.to make a drawer. Traditional drawers have through-dovetails at the back of the box and half-blind dovetails at the front. Our favorite technique is to make the drawer sides, front and bottom using 1⁄2"-thick stock and then glue on a 1⁄4" -thick piece of veneer for the front. This tech-nique allows you to cut through-

Build a Basic DIY Drawer ‹ Build Basic

In this video, I show you how to make cabinet drawers using screws for the queen sized storage I've been working on. Learn how to properly measure for drawe...Sizing drawers. The grooves used to make up the locking rabbet drawer joint are 1/4″ deep. The grooves will be exposed and we want those to be hidden by the false drawer front. The front and back pieces are the "captive" pieces (locked into the sides). With 1/2″ drawer material, you simply subtract 1/2″ from the desired drawer widthMake the Most of Skinny Spaces. In a small kitchen with little storage space, you can make even narrow filler spaces work harder by installing a vertical pegboard rollout.Kitchen designer Mary Jane Pappas typically recommends 18- to 30-in.-wide rollout drawers for cabinets: 'Any larger and they're too clumsy.Traditional drawers have through-dovetails at the back of the box and half-blind dovetails at the front. Our favorite technique is to make the drawer sides, front and bottom using 1⁄2″-thick stock and then glue on a 1⁄4″ -thick piece of veneer for the front.

How to Make Drawers - Home With Stefani | Inset Drawer Guide

Making drawers slide easily One of the keys to making good wooden drawers is to make the drawers slide easily. The most effective thing to do is to make sure that the drawers slide on hardwood. The next step is to treat the surface to make it glide more easily. Oil Putting any sort of oil on the slides makes them slide superbly.To make the drawer sides, rip 1/2" plywood to the depth of the existing drawer depth. Cut the ½" plywood to length at the full dimensions of the drawer box. You'll want to create two identically sized pieces for the sides, and two to create the front and back.How to make drawers for any cabinet or other woodworking project where you need storage. These DIY drawers are easy to build with pocket hole joinery. AndWoodworkers who are making cabinetry out of expensive, attractive hardwoods are often uncertain about what to use when it comes to constructing the drawers. Or more specifically, the drawer boxes. Should the interior sides, back, and bottom of the drawers be made from the same wood as the face of the drawers and the rest of the cabinet?I consider this to be the easier and most economical way to build good quality drawers. If more strength is needed, my loose dovetails can be added after the...

I'm sharing my complete guide with you right here on find out how to build drawers for cupboards and furniture on this put up!

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I do know I'm within the minority here, however I love to construct drawers.  It never will get outdated and I like adding them to the furniture I construct on every occasion I will.  But, I do know for lots of, drawer making turns out intimidating and frustrating.

I'm detailing EVERYTHING—from how one can calculate your drawer size, to what holes on the slides to place your screws in.  EVERYTHING.  I'm appearing you EXACTLY how I do it each single time.  So in the event you're in a position to start making drawers, let's get to it.   Be warned, this can be a lengthy put up, nevertheless it's FULL of info.

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As a basic notice, I will be talking about ball bearing, facet mount drawer slides most effective in this submit.  That's the only kind I use in my initiatives.  I've discovered all others to be extraordinarily frustrating. PS, if you just like the desk and cloth cabinet I display on this publish, make sure to test the ones posts out here: DIY Desk and DIY Dresser.

Also, I make all my drawers the use of ¾" plywood for the box and ¼" plywood for the bottom.  A number of making, installing and construction drawers is making sure issues are covered up and sq..  I really like to use plywood to construct my drawers because then I don't have to fret about twisted or warped forums causing me issues with alignment. 

Also, it seems SUPER CLEAN and since plywood doesn't transfer nearly up to solid wooden with seasonal adjustments, it's less prone to cause any tension pulling or pushing on slides, etc.

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The following is the exact procedure I exploit to make, measure, and install drawer packing containers.  It's now not necessarily proper or incorrect…it's just what works for me.  If you'd like a printable model, you can grab one right here:

Jump to:

Step 1: Determine Drawer Front Heights

Types of Drawer Fronts

Before we will figure out drawer front sizes, we want to quilt the different situations for drawer fronts.  First, you want to decide whether or not your drawer fronts will be inset or overlay.  (See this submit for info on inset vs. overlay) Then, you want to decide whether or not you might have framed or a frameless drawers. 

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Here are a couple of examples:

The most sensible drawer of this desk is inset with a body (realize it is surrounded on both sides via a body).  Notice the drawers are inset because they set inside the front of the cupboard. The bottom drawers are inset with no frame (notice that the cabinet DOES have a face frame, but the individual drawers aren't individually framed).

Then we have now full overlay drawers that are not framed in this example. Notice the drawers hold OVER the edges of the cupboard and don't seem to be personally framed. 

How to Determine Drawer Front Size?

Part of this comes to math, but part of it involves private choice.  I'll display you two examples to help provide you with an concept find out how to calculate sizes. 

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Measurements for Inset Framed Drawers

Inset framed drawers are by a long way the perfect to determine.  Simply measure the opening of the body and subtract ¼" from both top and width to find your drawer entrance dimension.  Basically, the rule of thumb of thumb is allowing ⅛" house around each side between the drawer entrance and the frame.

Measurements for Frameless Drawers

However, if the drawers aren't in my view framed you have got choices.  And choices complicate issues.

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Let's look at this kitchen cabinet for example.  I need 3 drawers, so I want three drawer fronts.  I would like the two bottom ones equivalent measurement and the highest one smaller.  I also want those drawer fronts complete overlay (see this publish for details on overlay/inset options).

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Since those are full overlay, my drawer fronts will cover all of the front of the cupboard EXCEPT ⅛" on both sides (see this put up for details).  There will have to even be ⅛" hole BETWEEN the drawer fronts as well. 

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So my cupboard top is 31", and I subtract the ⅛" most sensible gap, ⅛" backside hole, and two ⅛" gaps between drawer fronts and I've 30 ½" general in drawer entrance coverage.  If I need two fronts to be 12" tall, then 30 ½" – 12" – 12" = 6 ½" left for the top drawer entrance. 

If you might be doing inset drawer fronts, the idea is strictly the similar except for all your drawers must are compatible INSIDE the hole and no longer duvet the sides…like at the bottom of this cloth cabinet proven right here.

If I wanted the ones drawers to all be equal, I might take 30 ½" and divide by means of 3 to get the entire fronts need to be 10 ⅙"—so I'd most likely spherical down to ten ⅛" since that's the nearest quantity on my tape measure haha.

Step 2: Mount Drawer Slides

Now that I have my drawer front sizes found out, I can determine the place to mount my slides. I take advantage of ball bearing slides for all my furniture and cupboards.  They are easy to use and simple to regulate.  So that's what I'll be appearing in this put up.  FYI you can purchase those from Home Depot, or on-line from Amazon, Rockler, heaps of alternative shops.

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Ball bearing slides come in many sizes—most often in 2" increments, so, 10", 12", 14" and so forth usually up to about 24" lengthy.  You can buy these with or without cushy shut mechanisms.  You can select whatever dimension slide you want as long as it's the similar period or shorter than the depth of no matter you might be installing it into. 

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If your drawer front shall be inset into your cupboard, you also need to take into consideration that that may push your slide back the thickness of your drawer entrance.  So in that case, if I've a cupboard 22" deep and I've a ¾" thick inset drawer entrance, I can't use a 22" slide anymore.  I've to go with a 20" or shorter slide.

How and Where Do I Install the Drawer Slides?

I am getting a lot of questions on jigs to mount the slides.  I don't use any.  When in any respect imaginable, I flip my cupboards or piece of furniture on its aspect to put in my slides as a substitute of doing it while the piece is status. It's much easier to measure and install that approach with out anything else moving whilst using the screws.

I lay the cupboard over, measure, mark, then use a square to draw a line at that mark square to the entrance of the cupboard.  Then, I line the slide up with the mark and screw in place.

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I always get started on the bottom and work my method up.  I mount the first slide all the way at the bottom of the cabinet. OR if it's got a body, I mount the slide in order that the bottom is flush with the bottom opening of the body.

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Since I already know my drawer front peak, I can work out where to mount the slides pretty simple.  Let's glance again at this cabinet example.  I've greyed out the drawer fronts to come up with a visual right here. 

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My backside drawer front is 12".  To make things simple and provides me a variety of wiggle room, I measure up from the bottom of the cabinet about 1" higher than that drawer entrance—so 13".  That's the place I mount the next slide.

Then I do the similar for the following slide above it, just add the 2 fronts under it plus an extra inch—so 12" + 12" +1" = 25".  As lengthy as you clear the drawer entrance under it, it's now not crucial the place you put your slide so long as it's the same on each side of the cabinet.

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If this was once for inset drawers, the similar applies, just measure from the INSIDE of the hole vs the OUTSIDE of the cabinet.

Inset vs. Overlay Mounting

If you might be using overlay drawer fronts, set up your slides flush with the entrance of your cupboard. 

But, if you're using inset drawer fronts, set up them the thickness of your entrance INSET from the entrance of your cupboard.  Typically, your entrance can be ¾" thick, so set up it ¾" from the front edge of the cabinet.

Typically, those ball bearing drawer slides have horizontally slotted holes on the piece that mounts to the cabinet and vertically slotted holes that mount to the drawer field. 

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This offers you the ability to regulate the drawer box in each directions as needed.  I've never used the horizontal slots to adjust, so after I set up these into the cabinet, I exploit the spherical holes to keep it held in place.

Simply prolong the slide, and use ⅝" wood screws to attach the slides into the cabinet in a minimum of three puts.

Do I would like spacer blocks?

Everything prior to this assumed frameless cupboards or that the inside of the cupboard was once flush. 

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But, if a cabinet or piece of furnishings has a face frame that covers a portion of the inside of the cupboard like proven under on this garage desk, you'll need to set up a spacer block in an effort to mount the drawer slide flush with the outlet in the frame so it could possibly slide in and out. 

You'll mount the spacer blocks at the measurements discussed above, then mount the slides on top of them like proven.

Step 3: Build Drawer Boxes

So now that the slides are in position, now it's time to in truth construct drawers. 

Drawer Box Height

Again, similar to with the drawer entrance sizes, there are two major choices which you can run into.  You both have a frame across the drawer otherwise you don't.  In this example with this desk, notice that the ground cupboard drawers don't have frames but the best ones do. 

For Framed Drawers: If my drawers have frames, I make sure that the height of my drawer box is no less than 1"shorter than the height of my opening to make sure it's got a number of room to open and shut.

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For Unframed Drawers: If my drawers don't have frames, I cause them to about 2-3" shorter than my drawer entrance.  This isn't a "rule," it's just what I've discovered to paintings well for me.

Drawer Box Length & Widths

In order to figure the lengths to chop all the pieces to make a drawer, you simplest want two measurements. 

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You need the period of your slides (ex. If you're the use of 16" slides, the length is 16"…lovely straightforward), and the width of the opening wherein you plan to put your drawer.  That provides you with the LENGTHS to chop your pieces. 

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Frameless Cabinets

So, let's take this case once more.  This is a frameless kitchen cabinet that I'm striking 3 drawers into.  I'm using 22" drawer slides, and the width of the outlet is X (take note X from algebra magnificence??).

My total drawer box width will have to be 1" LESS than my opening—this allows room for the drawer slides.

Now, the drawer items will have to be reduce as follows.  The sides are ¾" plywood and the ground is ¼" plywood.  The ¼" plywood is going into dadoes cut into the drawers like shown once it's assembled with pocket holes.  I'll display that during detail later.

Face Frame Cabinets

I mentioned adding spacer blocks previous into cabinets or furnishings with face frames. This identical thing applies in the case in case you have spacer blocks to your slides, you just want to remember to measure between the spacer blocks instead of the inside of the cabinet.

How to Build Drawers

I bring together my drawers using ¼" plywood in dadoes on the drawer box aspects.  If you don't wish to reduce dadoes, you'll be able to also, just glue and staple ¼" plywood into the ground of the drawer box, HOWEVER, you wish to have to understand that that may add ¼" to the drawer field height, so you might need to regulate accordingly.

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I discovered the dado strategy to be blank having a look and powerful, so I favor that.  I modify the peak of my desk saw blade ¼" and lower this dado ½" from the bottom aspect of the drawer box items. 

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You could make a couple of passes with a typical noticed blade at the table saw to get the ¼" thickness, or use a ¼" dado blade and make one move or use a router and ¼" directly bit.

I collect the aspect items the usage of ¾" pocket holes and 1 ¼" picket screws like proven.  You can take a look at any of my YouTube video tutorials (like this table or this cloth cabinet) where I build one thing with a drawer to look the method. Once I've 3 pieces in combination, I slide the ¼" plywood piece in place and fasten the closing piece. 

You can use a corner clamp or square to carry pieces sq. when assembling them.  But, the easiest way to assist make sure the drawer is sq. is to ensure the ¼" plywood backside is square before placing it in.  It must be a pretty tight fit and should grasp the items square whether it is sq., too.

Step 4: Install the Drawer Box Into Slides

There are numerous tactics to install the drawer containers, but this is fast and works neatly.  I always get started on the backside and set up the bottom drawer first.  I position ¼" plywood scraps underneath the drawer field and rather lengthen the drawer field and the slides on all sides.

I prolong the slide and drawer field in order that the front fringe of the slide is FLUSH alongside the front fringe of the drawer field and put one ⅝" wood screw on every aspect in a vertical slotted hole.

Then, holding the drawer pushed down on the ¼" plywood scraps, I prolong the drawer and upload every other screw on each and every facet into a spherical hole. 

Then, I remove the drawer from the slide and upload another screw onto the again of the slide.  To take away the drawer, prolong it totally and there can be two tabs on each slide.  One will push up and one will push down.  Simultaneously push these tabs and pull the drawer directly out. 

Then add a screw into the tip either in a round or slotted hole.

Then, slide the drawer again in position and regulate as wanted the use of the screws in the vertically slotted holes.  Usually it won't want any changes, but when it does, that's why the screw holes are slotted—merely loosen the screw, alter, then tighten again.

To upload the following drawer, I exploit scrap wood blocks stacked on top of the field beneath and observe this identical procedure.  I stack the spacer blocks until the bottom of the drawer is higher than the place the drawer front below it's going to be–mainly the drawer field just has to transparent the drawer front underneath it.

Step 5: Attach Drawer Fronts

There are a lot of strategies for centering and attaching drawer fronts. But, I don't use any of them (I know…I'm bizarre).

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I've discovered one of the simplest ways to attach drawer fronts is to lay the piece on it's back, and set the fronts in position letting gravity dangle them where you wish to have them so you can get them targeted.

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However, if that's no longer possible, the following best manner is to leave the top of the piece off so you'll be able to get entry to the inside of the drawers like shown under.

I cling my drawer fronts on, and eyeball the gaps around the edges looking to get them as at the same time as imaginable–it will have to be about ⅛″ on either side.

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If I'm portray the piece, I'll brad nail the drawers in position, then use a few 1 ¼″ wood screws to soundly connect the fronts from the interior of the drawer field. I will be able to putty over the nail holes and no person will know.

However, if I'm not portray, I steer clear of the brad nails and have the ability to both grasp the entrance in place or clamp it in place whilst I screw it from the interior. This is why it's easiest to depart the top off when conceivable till after the drawers are finished.

And that's the right way to measure for, set up, and build drawers. I've tried to cram everything I've realized from enjoy in 4 years into one large blog post tutorial. Whew…that's a lot.

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I'll be 100% honest with you, although…this isn't a science. Your measurements don't have to be precisely what I showed you. In a few of my photographs, you'll even understand that I used to position my slides upper than I do now. And that labored high-quality! This post is supposed to be a guide, but not the guideline ebook 🙂

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The perfect strategy to get happy with drawers is to try them!! Literally the entirety I've advised you in this submit, I realized on my own simply by doing it. So I'm hoping it's been useful, however now you've got to USE it and get pleased with it. You can do that…I promise!

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So if you happen to enjoyed this post and need to save it for later, you should definitely pin it!

Until next time, buddies, satisfied building 🙂

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